What should you change in your crosshair?
Understand what every important crosshair option changes, then use the settings that match how you aim instead of copying numbers blindly.
A reliable starting setup
Start with cyan or green, a compact inner-line cross, a small open center, and movement and firing error turned off. Keep outlines on only if the crosshair disappears against bright walls.
Color and outlines control visibility
Color should make the center easy to recover after an ability flash, a fast turn, or a target switch. Cyan and green are safe starting points because they stay readable across many map surfaces.
Outlines add a dark edge around the shape. Use a thin outline when white or cyan blends into a wall; turn it off if the crosshair starts to feel thick or covers distant heads.
- Color: begin with cyan, green, white, or yellow.
- Outline opacity: enough contrast to separate the shape from the map.
- Outline thickness: keep it thin unless visibility is a real problem.
Center dot versus an open center
A center dot marks the exact middle and works well for deliberate one-taps. A four-line cross with a small gap leaves the head visible and gives your eyes more shape to track while moving.
If you keep losing a micro dot, make it thicker or switch to a short cross. Smaller is not automatically better when you cannot find it in a fight.
- Dot: precise and clean, but easier to lose.
- Open center: keeps the target visible through the middle.
- Closed center: easier to locate, but covers more of a distant target.
Inner lines define the main shape
Length controls how far the lines extend, thickness controls how bold they look, and offset controls the gap around the center. These three settings create most familiar competitive crosshairs.
A compact baseline is length 3–4, thickness 1–2, and offset 1–2. Change one value at a time and compare it on the same map scene.
- Length: shorter lines reduce clutter.
- Thickness: thicker lines improve visibility.
- Offset: a larger value opens more space around the head.
Outer lines are optional support
Outer lines can make a tiny center easier to track, but they also add visual noise. Most simple pro-style setups disable them.
Keep them only when they solve a clear problem, such as losing the center during quick movement.
- Use inner lines for the primary aiming reference.
- Use outer lines sparingly as a secondary reference.
- Disable outer lines for the cleanest static setup.
Movement and firing error change the shape
Movement error expands or shifts the crosshair when your movement reduces accuracy. Firing error reacts to weapon inaccuracy while shooting. They can teach a new player when a shot is inaccurate, but the animation can distract once the timing is familiar.
For a stable competitive crosshair, turn both off. For practice, temporarily enable movement error to learn when you have fully stopped.
- Training: movement error can provide useful feedback.
- Ranked: static crosshairs are easier to read consistently.
- Do not treat the animation as a replacement for recoil control.
Test changes in a repeatable way
Use one map, one color, and the same viewing distance. Compare only one setting at a time, then keep the version whose center you find fastest.
AimCodes lets you preview verified codes on the same scenes. Once a shape works, change its color and copy the updated code.
- First check visibility.
- Then check whether the center covers the target.
- Finally play a short practice-range session before ranked.
Common questions
Should movement error be on or off?
Use it temporarily if you are learning when movement makes shots inaccurate. Turn it off when you want a stable crosshair with no animation.
Do pro players use a center dot?
Some do, while many use four short lines with a small open center. The better choice is the one you can find quickly without covering the target.
Are outer lines necessary?
No. They are optional and most compact setups work with inner lines or a center dot alone.